Wednesday, August 26, 2020

POLITICIZING THE KITCHEN

 

 



 

The kitchen is the heart of domesticity; the home of the home where food and warmth are enjoyed by family members. But even the kitchen—this private realm in our life—can be part of everyday politics, albeit in different ways.

 

The Slave Chamber

Before modern technologies were developed for the household, the kitchen was the drudgery of domestic labor; labor which was generally associated with women’s role. Not surprisingly, the Russians in the Soviet era once viewed the kitchen as a slave chamber for women. After the Russian Revolution in 1917, the kitchen was part of the house that must be rid of for the full emancipation of women. Public dining spaces replaced the kitchen to free women from the derogatory labor and toil of the kitchen and to give women time for self-growth and development—more time to read and explore literature and the arts.

When these public dining places didn’t take off too well and the growing industry brought more people to the cities, the government set up communal apartments for several families to live in. Called kommunalka, these living spaces had a shared kitchen. The kitchens in these homes were public space, where each family sharing the apartment cooked their meals in.

 

Russian communal kitchen (NPR)

 

Among the pots and pans and laundry of all the families living in the apartment, the kitchen was not the best place to be sitting down to enjoy your coffee. Not just because it was a potential hotbed for occupants to engage in conflict, perhaps over a missing kettle, but it was also a dangerous place to carry out the wrong conversation. In the communal kitchen, you would have to watch what you say, as information can be passed on to the government.

 

A Kitchen of One’s Own

Beginning in 1950s and '60s, in the rush to provide housing for the increasing population, low ceiling two-bedroom apartments were built for the masses—dubbed the Khrushchyovka, after the Soviet leader. This time, they were built for individual families, with their very own bathroom and kitchen too. As extended families of three generations cramped into these small apartments, there was barely space for family members to eat together. But at least they had their very own kitchen.

With families having their own privacy, the kitchen did not become any safer. Being a private space, the government needed to take an even closer watch of the kitchen. Agents were watching and tapping kitchens.

However threatening, families welcomed guests into their small kitchens, they were the place where conversations about politics and the arts took place. Between the walls of the kitchen, underground self-published literature (samizdat) was shared and read. It was also a place for family and friends to listen to banned music, such as jazz and rock and roll. When a group of people hung out in the kitchen like this, it was considered a form of dissident activity.

 

Khrushchyovka apartment (NPR)

 

Ironically, while freedom of art and freedom of expression were topics discussed at the kitchen table, the discrimination that Soviet women were facing were topics left undiscussed.

While after the revolution Russian women obtained legal, political, and economic rights, it was not long after Stalin came into power that he brought back the traditional gender division of labor. Women were defined as mother, wife, and communist. Women’s condition eroded. Between the neighboring walls of communal apartments, it was no secret that women were victims of abuse.

In 1979, a group of women (Tatiana Mamonova, Tatiana Goricheva, Natalia Malakhovskaya, and Yuliya Vesnesenskaya) self-published the controversial almanac Woman and Russia that revealed what women really faced in the Soviet Union: the double standard as proletariats and as wives and mothers, unequal pay, domestic violence, poor conditions of maternity clinics, and the state’s poor childcare quality. However, the dissident circles did not care to discuss these issues at their kitchen tables and it was not long after the almanac’s circulation that the KGB were after the authors, forcing them to flee Russia. 

 

The Dishwasher

Twenty years before Woman and Russia was written, in 1959, during an American exhibition at Sokolniki Park in Moscow, the Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev had a heated debate with US Vice President Richard Nixon about women and kitchen design—one which will be remembered years on as part of Cold War history. Nixon proudly introduced the kitchen model of the “typical American house” and then particularly took the dishwasher as an example which he might have thought would represent women’s liberation in the US.  

 

Khrushchev and Nixon at Sokolniki Park in Moscow, 1959 (Time)

 

While pointing at a dishwasher Nixon goes on to say,

 “This is our newest model. This is the kind which is built in thousands of units for direct installations in the houses. In America, we like to make life easier for women.”

In response, Khrushchev said, “Your capitalistic attitude toward women does not occur under communism.”

Nixon replied, “I think that this attitude towards women is universal. What we want to do, is make life more easy for our housewives.”

 

The dishwasher conversation between the two world leaders—dubbed “the kitchen debate”—is quite telling. Even before a UN women’s convention existed, women’s wellbeing was already some sort of a benchmark for assessing a political system. 

So if the Soviet Union had wanted to liberate women by getting rid of the kitchen, the US had opt for revolutionizing the kitchen. After World War II, women in America were encouraged to stay at home to make way for the employment of men returning from war. During this time, the old-fashioned American kitchen began experiencing a dramatic change. Listening to what housewives felt about their kitchen, in the 1940s, architects, engineers, and home economics specialists began building modern kitchens. Using new technology, kitchens were turned into workshops to make cooking and washing convenient, less time consuming, and to give women freedom from drudgery. The architect of the successful suburban houses of the 1950’s, Alfred Levitt, was quoted to say: “Thanks to the number of appliances in our house, the girls will have three hours to kill every afternoon.” 

 

Watch 1949 film from the Bureau of Human Nutrition and Home Economics: A Step-Saving Kitchen. 

 

 

Levitton homes, New York (Pinterest)

 

With the new technologies aimed to boost efficiency and reduce domestic labor time, especially for women, couples could operate independently of extended family members. This was the time of the rise of the postwar nuclear family with the male breadwinner/housewife gender roles, from what advertisers and women’s magazines created the image of the postwar white middle-class housewife. 

 

Watch a feature from General Electric: It Happened in the Kitchen, Part 1 - ca. 1941.

 

Although as a housewife a woman toils with unpaid labor daily, in the capitalist system Nixon was promoting, this was not considered demeaning. Her devotion to her family was what makes up the American family values of the time. As scholars have observed, US Cold War propaganda heavily focused on the family and national security where the values of the ideal Western family were expected to sell democracy and capitalism abroad through the image of prosperity that the ideal family suggested.

 

Beyond the Kitchen

Interestingly, just four years after the kitchen talk with the Soviet leader—where Nixon attempted to use the domestic sphere to indicate the improvement of women’s life in the US—Betty Friedan's research revealed the contrary. Her book The Feminine Mystique (1963) exposed what was not communicated over the kitchen table: the unhappy white middle-class housewife’s discontent with domestic life.

 

 

Roger Wilkerson, Suburban Legend (Pinterest)

 

And in contrary to what Khrushchev may have thought about communism’s attitude towards women, Soviet women faced discrimination in the private and public sphere and this fact was even overlooked by dissident circles. Banned 40 years ago, the self-published Woman and Russia was recently in the Leningrad Feminism 1979 exhibition. (Its Moscow venue had experienced delay by the COVID-19 epidemic). The exhibition allows us to hear the once silenced voices of women who criticized the Soviet Union’s superficial liberation of women. These were the voices denied at the kitchen table.

 

Top picture photo credit: Jess Bailey (Unsplashed)



Sources

Friedan, Betty (1973) ‘Up from the Kitchen Floor.’ NY Times <https://www.nytimes.com/1973/03/04/archives/up-from-the-kitchen-floor-kitchen-floor.html> [22 August 2020].

GeoHistory (2015) The Evolution and Dissolution of the Soviet Kitchen <https://geohistory.today/soviet-kitchen/> [5 July 2020].

Krasner, Barbara (2014) ‘The Nuclear Family and Cold War Culture of the 1950s.’ Academia <https://www.academia.edu/9926751/The_Nuclear_Family_and_Cold_War_Culture_of_the_1950s> [21 December 2019].

Levittown (2003) Building the Suburban Dream <http://statemuseumpa.org/levittown/three/kitchen.html> [22 August 2020].

NPR (2014) How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds of Dissent and Culture: The Salt. <https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture> [5 July 2020].

Peacock, Margaret (2016) ‘Cold War Consumption and the Marketing of Childhood in the Soviet Union and the United States, 1950–1960.’ Journal of Historical Research in Marketing Vol. 8 No. 1: 83–98. <https://doi.org/10.1108/JHRM-05-2015-0015>.

Roache, Madeline (2019) ‘Is Capitalism or Communism Better for Women? How the Kitchen Debate Gave a New Meaning to the Cold War “Home Front”. Time <https://time.com/5630567/kitchen-debate-women/> [16 August 2020].

The Calvert Journal (2020) The Story Behind the 70s Samizdat that Launched Late Soviet Feminism <https://www.calvertjournal.com/articles/show/11906/woman-and-russia-feminist-zine-samizdat> [16 August 2020].

The Kitchen Debate-transcript 24 July 959 Vice President Richard Nixon and Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev U.S. Embassy, Moscow, Soviet Union <https://www.cia.gov/library/readingroom/docs/1959-07-24.pdf> [16 August 2020].

The Kitchen Sisters (2020) Communal Kitchens <http://www.kitchensisters.org/hidden-kitchens/communal-kitchens/> [5 July 2020].

United States Department of Agriculture National Agricultural Library (n.d.) Step-Saving Kitchens <https://nalgc.nal.usda.gov/step-saving-kitchens> [22 August 2020].